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Smalltown Marin County lightyears from San Francisco

As if the sights and sounds of Santhe San Francisco skyline across the
Francisco weren't enough to keepbay, this is the place. Tiburon is a
visitors completely enthralled, Motherfour-mile-long peninsula that is
Nature invites you to drive just a fewpositioned just across the bay from the
minutes north of the city, across thecity and, because of that, offers some
Golden Gate Bridge and into a suburbanof the most sought-after real estate in
area that seems like the other side ofthe area. The views of San Francisco
the planet from downtown.Bay, the city and the Golden Gate Bridge
That's why Marin County is an attractiveare breathtaking.
place to live -- as much as half theBe prepared for slow traffic that last
acreage is in open space, so residentsfour miles going into Tiburon � the
enjoy an endless selection of trails andtwo-lane highway gets busy in both
visitas, all quite clost to home. It'sdirections, especially in summer when
expensive to live here, all right, butthere is apt to be some type of road
then how many places offer you aconstruction activity. As you drive
multi-cultural city of sophistication onalong the peninsula, be sure to look to
one side of the bridge, and quiet trailsthe south, where what must be the
and solitude on the other? If you craveWorld's Most Expensive Soccer Field is
recreation in the Great Outdoors butlocated on a long swath of view property
drive a Mercedes, you just might be a(all in the spirit, of course, of Marin
Marin County resident.County's love affair with open space).
What's nice is that any of us can stopThe town of Tiburon looks almost like
by and experience -- for a weekend,any modern suburban town until you get
anyway -- this lifestyle for ourselves.to the edge of downtown where a couple
We took a little time to visit theof blocks of historic buildings and
southern part of the county, setting upnearby marina give the feeling of a New
our base of operations at the SanEngland fishing village. It's apparent
Anselmo Inn, a charming European-stylethis is the place locals go to soak up
lodging in Northern California'sthe views, walk or run the shoreline
antiquing capital, San Anselmo. It wastrail or, for the less ambitious, just
easy to drive short distances from therehunker down at one of the dockside
to explore many nearby attractions andoutdoor restaurants for drinks and maybe
communities;a seafood lunch. Numerous fishing and
The San Anselmo Inn is on San Anselmotour boats are tied up at the pier, and
Avenue, an especially enchantinga popular day trip is to take the
downtown street that gently winds itsregular ferry service six miles over to
way through the town's historicAngel Island State Park for an afternoon
buildings. The streets in this area areof hiking and exploration.
narrow and buildings close together, soTiburon's historic Main Street is known
the European feeling extends well beyondas "Ark Row" because of the 1890s
the inn itself. On a bright fallhouseboat lifestyle enjoyed by the
weekday, a wide variety of shops andtown's earliest residents. Today, the
stores � including 130 antique dealersarks are gone and the bay shopping
-- welcomed locals and visitors alike.district includes a number of upscale
It wasn't a busy atmosphere, but more aboutiques as well as the occasional
casual, relaxed feel that seemed idealtourist shop. The nearby walking path,
for the many young mothers and babies wewith its views of the city, is
noticed enjoying a stroll on thisconsidered one of the most romantic
colorful street.spots in Bay area.
Everything in this small town is withinAnother nearby city that's just minutes
walking distance of the inn. We wouldaway from San Anselmo is Larkspur, whose
explore the town's shops, or hike nearbydowntown area is officially listed on
trails and then return to ourthe National Register of Historic
comfortable room at the inn. ThePlaces. If you want to see what San
innkeepers, Julie and Peter McNair, haveFrancisco's suburbs looked like at the
taken care to give each room aturn of the century, check out the
historical feel befitting theirtown's historical buildings, many of
building, which was one of the firstthem Queen Anne Victorians. The historic
built in the area as the new railroaddowntown area is west of Highway 101.
line facilitated the development of SanIt's also in this area that you can hop
Anselmo and nearby towns. Our room wasa ferry to San Francisco. A foot bridge
spacious for a bed-and-breakfast inn andover the highway will take you to Golden
featured a four-poster bed, marble-topGate Ferry terminal where you can get on
vanity, antique desk, nightstands anda ferry departing for the San Francisco
cabinets and, in the private bathroom, aFerry Building. The ferry ride is a
Jacuzzi style tub. Breakfast was agreat place to get photos of such
special treat at the inn � aattractions as Mt. Tamalpais, the Golden
delightful Spanish quiche, lots of freshGate Bridge and picturesque Angel
muffins and pastries, waffles, fruit,Island.
juices, cereals and all served in aNearby San Rafael is a bit larger city
pleasant and spacious dining area.� in fact the largest in Marin County.
After breakfast, it was off toThe downtown shopping area offers the
experience some local recreation, andstores, ethnic restaurants, large banks
one nearby hike recommended to us wasand other services that aren't found in
the Phoenix Lake Trail, a 2.8-mile thatthe smaller towns of Marin. It's the
takes visitors around the lake through aonly place in these parts where you see
mixture of oak, bay and redwood trees.high-rise buildings � yet there still
This trail was easy to find, but youis a lot of rich, Victorian architecture
might have to wait for a parking spot.that gives San Rafael a feel all of its
Local joggers and walkers love theown.
combination of lush redwood forests,One particular point of interest is the
lake views and wide trails, so theauthentic re-creation of Mission San
20-plus parking stalls were full-up whenRafael Arcangel. This was founded in
we visited about 9 a.m. on a Wednesday.1817 and today you can visit a replica
No matter, though � we only had toof the original mission and tour a
wait about 10 minutes.museum. Also check out the Marin County
Another local point of interest is theHistorical Society Museum and the
San Francisco Theological Seminary,Falkirk Cultural Center.
which relocated its school here from SanAT A GLANCE
Francisco in 1892. You can't miss theWHERE: San Anselmo and other nearby
seminary with its castle-like grandMarin County cities are located just a
stone buildings standing above Rossfew miles north of the Golden Gate
Valley.Bridge. .
You'll also find history in the manyWHAT: These southern Marin County
old-time buildings downtown, which arecommunities are a little bit off the
part of a self-guided walking tourbeaten path for tourists, but each of
prepared by local historians. At thethe cities and towns offers a distinct
inn, you can pick up a copy of a verycharacter and charm, and are fun to
detailed magazine produced by the Sanexplore.
Anselmo Historical Commission, whichWHEN: Year-round. Bring warm clothing
provides an excellent description,because it can get cold in the Bay area,
history and photo of each of the town'swhich often is compared with SEattle for
major historical points of interest. Beits sometimes damp climate. Even in the
sure to check out the Robson-Harringtonwarmest summer months, the occasional
House and Park, the Carnegie Library andcold weather can settle in. But often
the American Legion Log Cabin.you'll find bright sunshine.
About a 15-minute drive south from SanWHY: This area north of San Francisco is
Anselmo took us to one of the otherrich with history and offers an unusual
scenic bedroom communities of Marincombination of upscale shopping and
County � Tiburon.dining, along with numerous
If you're looking for scenic vistas ofopportunities for outdoor recreation.



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