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Smalltown Marin County lightyears from San Francisco

As if the sights and sounds of San the San Francisco skyline across the bay,
Francisco weren't enough to keep visitors this is the place. Tiburon is a
completely enthralled, Mother Nature four-mile-long peninsula that is
invites you to drive just a few minutes positioned just across the bay from the
north of the city, across the Golden Gate city and, because of that, offers some of
Bridge and into a suburban area that the most sought-after real estate in the
seems like the other side of the planet area. The views of San Francisco Bay, the
from downtown. city and the Golden Gate Bridge are
That's why Marin County is an attractive breathtaking.
place to live -- as much as half the Be prepared for slow traffic that last
acreage is in open space, so residents four miles going into Tiburon � the
enjoy an endless selection of trails and two-lane highway gets busy in both
visitas, all quite clost to home. It's directions, especially in summer when
expensive to live here, all right, but there is apt to be some type of road
then how many places offer you a construction activity. As you drive along
multi-cultural city of sophistication on the peninsula, be sure to look to the
one side of the bridge, and quiet trails south, where what must be the World's
and solitude on the other? If you crave Most Expensive Soccer Field is located on
recreation in the Great Outdoors but a long swath of view property (all in the
drive a Mercedes, you just might be a spirit, of course, of Marin County's love
Marin County resident. affair with open space).
What's nice is that any of us can stop by The town of Tiburon looks almost like any
and experience -- for a weekend, anyway modern suburban town until you get to the
-- this lifestyle for ourselves. We took edge of downtown where a couple of blocks
a little time to visit the southern part of historic buildings and nearby marina
of the county, setting up our base of give the feeling of a New England fishing
operations at the San Anselmo Inn, a village. It's apparent this is the place
charming European-style lodging in locals go to soak up the views, walk or
Northern California's antiquing capital, run the shoreline trail or, for the less
San Anselmo. It was easy to drive short ambitious, just hunker down at one of the
distances from there to explore many dockside outdoor restaurants for drinks
nearby attractions and communities; and maybe a seafood lunch. Numerous
The San Anselmo Inn is on San Anselmo fishing and tour boats are tied up at the
Avenue, an especially enchanting downtown pier, and a popular day trip is to take
street that gently winds its way through the regular ferry service six miles over
the town's historic buildings. The to Angel Island State Park for an
streets in this area are narrow and afternoon of hiking and exploration.
buildings close together, so the European Tiburon's historic Main Street is known
feeling extends well beyond the inn as "Ark Row" because of the 1890s
itself. On a bright fall weekday, a wide houseboat lifestyle enjoyed by the town's
variety of shops and stores � including earliest residents. Today, the arks are
130 antique dealers -- welcomed locals gone and the bay shopping district
and visitors alike. It wasn't a busy includes a number of upscale boutiques as
atmosphere, but more a casual, relaxed well as the occasional tourist shop. The
feel that seemed ideal for the many young nearby walking path, with its views of
mothers and babies we noticed enjoying a the city, is considered one of the most
stroll on this colorful street. romantic spots in Bay area.
Everything in this small town is within Another nearby city that's just minutes
walking distance of the inn. We would away from San Anselmo is Larkspur, whose
explore the town's shops, or hike nearby downtown area is officially listed on the
trails and then return to our comfortable National Register of Historic Places. If
room at the inn. The innkeepers, Julie you want to see what San Francisco's
and Peter McNair, have taken care to give suburbs looked like at the turn of the
each room a historical feel befitting century, check out the town's historical
their building, which was one of the buildings, many of them Queen Anne
first built in the area as the new Victorians. The historic downtown area is
railroad line facilitated the development west of Highway 101.
of San Anselmo and nearby towns. Our room It's also in this area that you can hop a
was spacious for a bed-and-breakfast inn ferry to San Francisco. A foot bridge
and featured a four-poster bed, over the highway will take you to Golden
marble-top vanity, antique desk, Gate Ferry terminal where you can get on
nightstands and cabinets and, in the a ferry departing for the San Francisco
private bathroom, a Jacuzzi style tub. Ferry Building. The ferry ride is a great
Breakfast was a special treat at the inn place to get photos of such attractions
� a delightful Spanish quiche, lots of as Mt. Tamalpais, the Golden Gate Bridge
fresh muffins and pastries, waffles, and picturesque Angel Island.
fruit, juices, cereals and all served in Nearby San Rafael is a bit larger city
a pleasant and spacious dining area. � in fact the largest in Marin County.
After breakfast, it was off to experience The downtown shopping area offers the
some local recreation, and one nearby stores, ethnic restaurants, large banks
hike recommended to us was the Phoenix and other services that aren't found in
Lake Trail, a 2.8-mile that takes the smaller towns of Marin. It's the only
visitors around the lake through a place in these parts where you see
mixture of oak, bay and redwood trees. high-rise buildings � yet there still
This trail was easy to find, but you is a lot of rich, Victorian architecture
might have to wait for a parking spot. that gives San Rafael a feel all of its
Local joggers and walkers love the own.
combination of lush redwood forests, lake One particular point of interest is the
views and wide trails, so the 20-plus authentic re-creation of Mission San
parking stalls were full-up when we Rafael Arcangel. This was founded in 1817
visited about 9 a.m. on a Wednesday. No and today you can visit a replica of the
matter, though � we only had to wait original mission and tour a museum. Also
about 10 minutes. check out the Marin County Historical
Another local point of interest is the Society Museum and the Falkirk Cultural
San Francisco Theological Seminary, which Center.
relocated its school here from San AT A GLANCE
Francisco in 1892. You can't miss the WHERE: San Anselmo and other nearby Marin
seminary with its castle-like grand stone County cities are located just a few
buildings standing above Ross Valley. miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge. .
You'll also find history in the many WHAT: These southern Marin County
old-time buildings downtown, which are communities are a little bit off the
part of a self-guided walking tour beaten path for tourists, but each of the
prepared by local historians. At the inn, cities and towns offers a distinct
you can pick up a copy of a very detailed character and charm, and are fun to
magazine produced by the San Anselmo explore.
Historical Commission, which provides an WHEN: Year-round. Bring warm clothing
excellent description, history and photo because it can get cold in the Bay area,
of each of the town's major historical which often is compared with SEattle for
points of interest. Be sure to check out its sometimes damp climate. Even in the
the Robson-Harrington House and Park, the warmest summer months, the occasional
Carnegie Library and the American Legion cold weather can settle in. But often
Log Cabin. you'll find bright sunshine.
About a 15-minute drive south from San WHY: This area north of San Francisco is
Anselmo took us to one of the other rich with history and offers an unusual
scenic bedroom communities of Marin combination of upscale shopping and
County � Tiburon. dining, along with numerous opportunities
If you're looking for scenic vistas of for outdoor recreation.




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