Smalltown Marin County lightyears from San Francisco

As if the sights and sounds of San FranciscoFrancisco skyline across the bay, this is the place.
weren't enough to keep visitors completelyTiburon is a four-mile-long peninsula that is
enthralled, Mother Nature invites you to drive justpositioned just across the bay from the city and,
a few minutes north of the city, across thebecause of that, offers some of the most
Golden Gate Bridge and into a suburban area thatsought-after real estate in the area. The views of
seems like the other side of the planet fromSan Francisco Bay, the city and the Golden Gate
downtown.Bridge are breathtaking.
That's why Marin County is an attractive place toBe prepared for slow traffic that last four miles
live -- as much as half the acreage is in opengoing into Tiburon � the two-lane highway
space, so residents enjoy an endless selection ofgets busy in both directions, especially in summer
trails and visitas, all quite clost to home. It'swhen there is apt to be some type of road
expensive to live here, all right, but then howconstruction activity. As you drive along the
many places offer you a multi-cultural city ofpeninsula, be sure to look to the south, where
sophistication on one side of the bridge, and quietwhat must be the World's Most Expensive Soccer
trails and solitude on the other? If you craveField is located on a long swath of view property
recreation in the Great Outdoors but drive a(all in the spirit, of course, of Marin County's love
Mercedes, you just might be a Marin Countyaffair with open space).
resident.The town of Tiburon looks almost like any
What's nice is that any of us can stop by andmodern suburban town until you get to the edge
experience -- for a weekend, anyway -- thisof downtown where a couple of blocks of historic
lifestyle for ourselves. We took a little time tobuildings and nearby marina give the feeling of a
visit the southern part of the county, setting upNew England fishing village. It's apparent this is the
our base of operations at the San Anselmo Inn, aplace locals go to soak up the views, walk or run
charming European-style lodging in Northernthe shoreline trail or, for the less ambitious, just
California's antiquing capital, San Anselmo. It washunker down at one of the dockside outdoor
easy to drive short distances from there torestaurants for drinks and maybe a seafood lunch.
explore many nearby attractions andNumerous fishing and tour boats are tied up at
communities;the pier, and a popular day trip is to take the
The San Anselmo Inn is on San Anselmo Avenue,regular ferry service six miles over to Angel
an especially enchanting downtown street thatIsland State Park for an afternoon of hiking and
gently winds its way through the town's historicexploration.
buildings. The streets in this area are narrow andTiburon's historic Main Street is known as "Ark
buildings close together, so the European feelingRow" because of the 1890s houseboat lifestyle
extends well beyond the inn itself. On a bright fallenjoyed by the town's earliest residents. Today,
weekday, a wide variety of shops and storesthe arks are gone and the bay shopping district
� including 130 antique dealers --includes a number of upscale boutiques as well as
welcomed locals and visitors alike. It wasn't a busythe occasional tourist shop. The nearby walking
atmosphere, but more a casual, relaxed feel thatpath, with its views of the city, is considered one
seemed ideal for the many young mothers andof the most romantic spots in Bay area.
babies we noticed enjoying a stroll on this colorfulAnother nearby city that's just minutes away
street.from San Anselmo is Larkspur, whose downtown
Everything in this small town is within walkingarea is officially listed on the National Register of
distance of the inn. We would explore the town'sHistoric Places. If you want to see what San
shops, or hike nearby trails and then return to ourFrancisco's suburbs looked like at the turn of the
comfortable room at the inn. The innkeepers, Juliecentury, check out the town's historical buildings,
and Peter McNair, have taken care to give eachmany of them Queen Anne Victorians. The
room a historical feel befitting their building, whichhistoric downtown area is west of Highway 101.
was one of the first built in the area as the newIt's also in this area that you can hop a ferry to
railroad line facilitated the development of SanSan Francisco. A foot bridge over the highway will
Anselmo and nearby towns. Our room wastake you to Golden Gate Ferry terminal where
spacious for a bed-and-breakfast inn and featuredyou can get on a ferry departing for the San
a four-poster bed, marble-top vanity, antiqueFrancisco Ferry Building. The ferry ride is a great
desk, nightstands and cabinets and, in the privateplace to get photos of such attractions as Mt.
bathroom, a Jacuzzi style tub. Breakfast was aTamalpais, the Golden Gate Bridge and
special treat at the inn � a delightfulpicturesque Angel Island.
Spanish quiche, lots of fresh muffins and pastries,Nearby San Rafael is a bit larger city � in
waffles, fruit, juices, cereals and all served in afact the largest in Marin County. The downtown
pleasant and spacious dining area.shopping area offers the stores, ethnic
After breakfast, it was off to experience somerestaurants, large banks and other services that
local recreation, and one nearby hikearen't found in the smaller towns of Marin. It's the
recommended to us was the Phoenix Lake Trail,only place in these parts where you see high-rise
a 2.8-mile that takes visitors around the lakebuildings � yet there still is a lot of rich,
through a mixture of oak, bay and redwoodVictorian architecture that gives San Rafael a feel
trees. This trail was easy to find, but you mightall of its own.
have to wait for a parking spot. Local joggers andOne particular point of interest is the authentic
walkers love the combination of lush redwoodre-creation of Mission San Rafael Arcangel. This
forests, lake views and wide trails, so the 20-pluswas founded in 1817 and today you can visit a
parking stalls were full-up when we visited about 9replica of the original mission and tour a museum.
a.m. on a Wednesday. No matter, thoughAlso check out the Marin County Historical Society
� we only had to wait about 10 minutes.Museum and the Falkirk Cultural Center.
Another local point of interest is the San FranciscoAT A GLANCE
Theological Seminary, which relocated its schoolWHERE: San Anselmo and other nearby Marin
here from San Francisco in 1892. You can't missCounty cities are located just a few miles north
the seminary with its castle-like grand stoneof the Golden Gate Bridge. .
buildings standing above Ross Valley.WHAT: These southern Marin County
You'll also find history in the many old-timecommunities are a little bit off the beaten path
buildings downtown, which are part of afor tourists, but each of the cities and towns
self-guided walking tour prepared by localoffers a distinct character and charm, and are fun
historians. At the inn, you can pick up a copy of ato explore.
very detailed magazine produced by the SanWHEN: Year-round. Bring warm clothing because it
Anselmo Historical Commission, which provides ancan get cold in the Bay area, which often is
excellent description, history and photo of each ofcompared with SEattle for its sometimes damp
the town's major historical points of interest. Beclimate. Even in the warmest summer months,
sure to check out the Robson-Harrington Housethe occasional cold weather can settle in. But
and Park, the Carnegie Library and the Americanoften you'll find bright sunshine.
Legion Log Cabin.WHY: This area north of San Francisco is rich with
About a 15-minute drive south from San Anselmohistory and offers an unusual combination of
took us to one of the other scenic bedroomupscale shopping and dining, along with numerous
communities of Marin County � Tiburon.opportunities for outdoor recreation.
If you're looking for scenic vistas of the San