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Article #184: Side-Tripping in Montana

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Nightlife in Big Sky, Montana is more visited Staci's, even a lively bartender
exciting than you would think. Especially who could whip up a drink in the blink of
for a pair of happy-go-lucky California an eye.
girls in town just for the heck of it, on As appealing as our cowboy bar experience
a spur-of-the-moment vacation in search had been, we couldn't stay all night
of a Western adventure. Not the kind of because the morning held the promise of
west-coast adventure you'd find on a more adventure. So after a few more
sunny San Diego beach covered with strange stares from some of the locals
half-nude bodies dripping with SPF 15 and suspicious smiles from others, we
tanning lotion. Or the kind you'd find on departed Staci's and headed back down
a Big Bear ski slope watching bikini that dark road.
babes race down the black diamond hills The next day we awoke bright and early
with sun screen-covered noses. and headed out towards Yellowstone
This vacation was more of a "good girls" National Park. Upon entering the town of
version of Thelma and Louise hitting the West Yellowstone, I immediately felt as
open highway to see what we could see. though we had gone back in time to some
With no concrete plans, no hotel familiar yet unknown place that was a
reservations and no idea what to expect, cross between Mayberry and the Twilight
we arrived in Billings, grabbed a few Zone. But as we followed the signs into
visitors brochures and decided to at Yellowstone National Park, a feeling of
least try to visit Bozeman, Big Sky and anticipation rose up inside of me, and I
Yellowstone National Park. must admit that I was secretly on the
After one night's stay in Bozeman at a lookout for Ranger Bob, Yogi the Bear and
lovely bed and breakfast and a his little friend, Boo-Boo.
breathtaking hike the day before up to The sights of the natural hot springs and
Fairy Lake-a peaceful, secluded lake clay-like mud pots were breathtaking.
surrounded by tall pines and absolutely Watching bison graze at a distance as we
no noise at all-we awoke to the sight of sat eating fruit and nuts on a log by the
a light snowfall (a real treat for side of the road, we were very careful
Southern Californians), the smell of not to litter this pristine wilderness
Canadian bacon and the bark of the inn obviously created by the sovereign hand
keeper's golden retriever, Bailey. It was of God. It was all so surreal.
time to hit the road. Traipsing through what we had hoped
Our drive through Bozeman traced past wasn't off-limits territory reserved only
charming little antique shops, down-home for the bison, I realized that we should
diners, and the usual small town sights, head back to our car when we noticed
then to the outskirts of town. After a enormous piles of bison poop in the tall,
few stops to check out some antiques, and golden brush. Hmmmm, how fast can a bison
about two hours later, my girlfriend and run, and could I outrun one if motivated
I found ourselves in the friendly town of by the fear for my life? I wasn't
Big Sky feeling like two fish out of convinced I wanted to find out, so after
water, but ready to breathe in some more much whining and sharing my fears of
of that smog-free air through our gills hypothetical situations of the two of us
and get to know the place-if only for a being eaten by a family of bison, my
few days. friend finally consented to my cowardice
Our inquiries as to where to find some and we headed back to the safety of the
adventure in this ski town during the off parking lot civilization.
season led us to the horse stables for Further up the road into the Park, we
some Western-style sight seeing. A came to the spot known world wide for its
two-hour horseback ride guided by a perfect timing-Old Faithful geyser.
real-life cowboy was a challenge for my Amazingly, we arrived within only two
tender hind parts, but I had to tough it minutes of the moment of truth, the
out because my friend, the experienced geyser's eruption, which is said to take
rider that she is, struck up a friendly place every 80 minutes on average.
conversation with our trail guide (need I Watching the gentle puffs of steam become
say, "flirting"). And besides that, the a graceful gush of water shooting
views from the trail were unreal. I felt powerfully high up into the air, I was
like I was riding through a scene from indeed impressed by nature's
the old TV show Big Valley. awe-inspiring display of beauty. And just
After a much-needed soak in a deep tub of as quickly as it had begun, it all ended
hot water overflowing with bubbles in a slow, quiet lull of
(literally) in our cozy room at the nothingness-until the next time.
Rainbow Ranch Lodge, I perked up and my Our walking tour of the other geysers
travel buddy and I trekked down to a around the Old Faithful site was equally
little restaurant on the side of the road awesome. Sturdy wood-beamed pathways led
that served the freshest, most tender us over the bubbling pools of mud and
beef we'd ever eaten this side of ... steaming hot springs. Careful not to lean
well, anyplace. When one of the locals, a too far forward or to drop anything into
handsome "Marlboro Man" type seated on a the pools, we carefully heeded the
barstool, kindly invited us to drop by warning signs about their intense heat,
the local watering hole, Staci's Old reportedly hot enough to boil the rubber
Faithful Bar, the next night for a little off of a jogging shoe (not to mention the
Western hospitality and a lesson in how tender skin off of my bones!).
to really two-step, we knew we couldn't But suddenly the heat of the pools wasn't
miss that opportunity. a concern, when just up ahead about 30
So the next night, we hopped in our feet we noticed a big, hairy mass of
Subaru Outback (we had to "look" the part flesh munching away at the brush on the
of locals, right) and headed down the side of the walking path. A real life
dark two-lane highway very slowly so as bison, up close and personal. We froze in
not to accidentally encounter one of our tracks awaiting any sign that this
those deer we were warned to beware of big fella might be intimidated by our
from the road signs posted every twenty presence, or even worse, that he might
paces. The fear of killing Bambi was ever begin to see us as two tasty morsels just
in our consciousness. As my friend drove ripe for eatin'. We were stuck between
tentatively, I sat anxiously with eyes fear and the almost uncontrollable urge
wide open ready to scream, "Stop!" at the to laugh out loud at this unbelievable
first sight of anything that remotely sight. And wouldn't you know it-no more
looked like a darling deer ready to film in the camera! We slowly eased past
prance in front of our rental car. Talk the mammoth beast keeping our four eyes
about stress! on his two and ready to run like Flo Jo
As we neared our destination and noticed if the threat presented itself. With that
the flickering red neon sign out front experience, there was no doubt that
and the rickety wood-framed screen door Yellowstone was the highlight of this
smack shut behind a few cowboys, doubt trip.
set in big time. Suddenly we weren't so On the last day of our great Montana
sure we should be there. Would we be adventure, we hit the road and did some
safe? What if something happened to us, more side-tripping. Traveling up highway
who would know? Yes, safety was a 287, we passed through the town of Ennis
concern. But that's why two crazed, and then journeyed through Virginia City,
adventurous minds are better than one. So a little "ghost town" that has been
we threw caution to the wind, took a deep preserved as an historic area. The old
breath and headed into Staci's. wooden buildings reminded me of the town
Remember that scene from the movie comedy in Little House on the Prairie. As we
48-Hours when Eddie Murphy steps into a walked the dusty road I half expected to
country/western bar and the whole room be caught in the middle of a shootout
screeches to a halt. Well, just keep that between the town sheriff and an unwelcome
in mind. I don't think I have ever felt troublemaker.
more aware of my being than at that Eventually, we found ourselves at Three
moment when my curly, blonde-haired Forks, a watery junction where three
friend and I, an African American woman, rivers (the Jefferson, Madison and
walked into that bar. All eyes on us, we Gallatin rivers) meet to form the mouth
tried to look like we "belonged" there. of the Missouri River. As we stood there
And to our credit we were cool as watching the swirl of the brown waters
cucumbers-on the outside. and feeling the drizzle of an oncoming
As we strolled over to the only two empty downpour, we realized that this
barstools, I felt as if we were moving in crossroads signified the end of our trip.
slow motion-and so were the hundred or so One full of unexpected treasures and
pairs of eyes that followed us. Even the surprises we could have never planned.
cigarette smoke swirls were flowing Back to reality tomorrow. But what an
through the air like low fog hovering adventure we had experienced.
over a still country pond in the early Back in Billings we hesitated a bit as we
morning. But once we sat down, the room returned our rental car and headed into
quickly returned to its previous lively the airport, relishing our serendipitous
condition and we were able to exhale. escapade as we caught one last glimpse of
Whew, the hard part was over. the freshly snow-capped mountains in the
I must say, our cowboy bar experience was distance. An adventure, indeed. One I
chock full of interesting sights-a live will never forget, and one that I believe
band talented enough to make it to the will set the standard for all future
second round of Star Search, dancing vacations for me. Plan a little,
couples proficient in the latest country experience a lot. That is now my vacation
western and dirty dancing moves, photos slogan.
of local rodeo celebrities who had






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